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12-12-13 09:50 PM
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Crocheting 101

Good evening everyone and welcome to crocheting 101! If I was creative or witty, I'm sure I'd write something to draw you in and capture your wonderful imaginations. However, since I possess neither creativity nor wit..... I'll have to hope that this lovely little hobby will be enough to reel you in!

When I was 13, my aunt came to visit my family the wintry bluster of Alaska. While we sat inside cozy by the fire and watching re-runs of Wishbone and sipping on hot chocolate, she decided to enlighten us on her second favorite hobby: crocheting. Although neither of my siblings ever took to it, I couldn't put it down. I've been crocheting ever since then, and I find nothing more relaxing. Besides that, crocheting is great for your wrists! Some doctors are actually advised to learn the art so that they can help prevent the onslaught of arthritis later in their careers.

While at first I wanted to show you all a few basic stitches, I quickly realized (once fliming), that there were actually several more basics that should be covered. I apologize for the low quality of my video, but it was unscripted and not very well planned out. I did accidentally speak incorrectly once, but I didn't feel one mis-speak was enough to re-record everything. (lol!) I mentioned that crocheting wasn't as tight-knit as 'crocheting', but I meant to say croheted stitches aren't as tight-knit as knitting.

So here, for your viewing pleasure, is a basic video. If you have any questions, feel free to let me know by posting below. I'd love to have some feedback or for a few people to post their results.

Crocheting 101

Good evening everyone and welcome to crocheting 101! If I was creative or witty, I'm sure I'd write something to draw you in and capture your wonderful imaginations. However, since I possess neither creativity nor wit..... I'll have to hope that this lovely little hobby will be enough to reel you in!

When I was 13, my aunt came to visit my family the wintry bluster of Alaska. While we sat inside cozy by the fire and watching re-runs of Wishbone and sipping on hot chocolate, she decided to enlighten us on her second favorite hobby: crocheting. Although neither of my siblings ever took to it, I couldn't put it down. I've been crocheting ever since then, and I find nothing more relaxing. Besides that, crocheting is great for your wrists! Some doctors are actually advised to learn the art so that they can help prevent the onslaught of arthritis later in their careers.

While at first I wanted to show you all a few basic stitches, I quickly realized (once fliming), that there were actually several more basics that should be covered. I apologize for the low quality of my video, but it was unscripted and not very well planned out. I did accidentally speak incorrectly once, but I didn't feel one mis-speak was enough to re-record everything. (lol!) I mentioned that crocheting wasn't as tight-knit as 'crocheting', but I meant to say croheted stitches aren't as tight-knit as knitting.

So here, for your viewing pleasure, is a basic video. If you have any questions, feel free to let me know by posting below. I'd love to have some feedback or for a few people to post their results.

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Singelli


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Registered: 08-09-12
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(edited by Singelli on 12-13-13 12:28 AM)    

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Although I could jump in and give you the ropes on crocheting, you'd be left in a pretty sore spot if you grab the wrong hook or end up with a ball of knots and nooses. Therefore, I'd like to give you some hints and tips for the first steps of your journey... things people usually don't think about.

The Hook

There are all kinds of hooks out there, but it's not necessary to spend a small fortune on a proper tool.For the most part, I see two brands: Susan Bates, and Boye. A crochet hook is pretty thin and narrow, usually made of aluminum or plastic. It has a 'hook' on one end which catches string while you partake in the hobby, creating stitches, and ultimately... a cloth. Hooks come in all sorts of sizes, and the sizes should be used for different kinds of projects.

Unfortunately, the standard for measuring hook sizes depends on brand, country, or pattern. Most hooks though, will show both the 'US size', and the metric size. Although my pictures didn't come out well, you can kind of see what I mean here:


As though having two standards for measure isn't enough, aluminum and steel hooks have different ..... US measurement titles depending on their material. For example, steel hooks will have a size ranging from 00 to 14, whereas aluminum hooks will have sizes between B-1 and S. Sounds kind of nuts, right? Luckily, it's not something you really have to stress about though, since MOST hooks will list both sizes right on the handle, as seen in my picture above. If your pattern only tells the opposite standard of the hook you want to buy, a quick google search can help you find a matching size. Or if you're in a store, there should be crochet books nearby. Pick one up and flip through it... and you're almost guaranteed to find a conversion chart. In case you're curious, you can also find the conversion charts here:


(chart provided from http://www.hassdesign.com/BasicFiletTechniques/CrochetHooksAndThread/)

So other than size, does it matter which crochet hook you use? Although the simplest response would be no, I would like to offer a different piece of advice based off my 13 years of experience. As I mentioned earlier, unless you want to spend a lot of money, the two most common brands are Susan Bates and Boyle. The Boyle hooks are everywhere, but quite frankly, I'm not their biggest fan. Pictured below, you can see a Boyle hook on the left, and a Bates hook on the right.



Although it might be difficult for the untrained eye to see, the hook on the left has a much softer and more shallow curve. This is a bad idea, because when crocheting, your yarn will fall off the hook very easily. You also stand a stronger chance of splitting your yarn when you try and catch the yarn back onto the hook. This means broken yarn and a messier texture to whatever you are creating. The hook on the right, however, has a deeper, more squarish indent. This catches yarn very easily, while also releasing it just as smoothly. I haven't seen a Bates hook in quite some time, but I'd definitely say they are worth the search if you plan on taking up crocheting as a hobby.

Finally, there's the question of what size you should start with as a beginning crocheter. Although I'm not sure what the rule of thumb is, my recommendation would be a 5.0mm, or a H-8. While you can start with larger hooks, I would strongly advise to stay away from the smaller ones while learning. Crocheting is a lot like hand-writing, in that everyone's style is different. Some people end up with wide, loose stitches, while others end up with small and tight stitches (like myself). Although I've never researched the idea, I have a feeling your stitches will tend towards whatever scale your handwriting does. 3.25mm and above, for myself, are ideal for working with yarns, while anything smaller is needed to work with strings. Yarns and strings come in different sizes, but that's not something I'll really discuss in this post, since it's not going to be important until you get comfortable with basic stitches and want to explore.

The Yarn

There's not a whole lot to be said about yarn and string right now as a beginner. Most standard yarns are pretty identical and so picking a skein does not need to be a stressful process. Although I'd recommend using softer types when completing a project, I actually would advise you to avoid it like the plague when first beginning your journey. Softer yarn splits with much more ease, and can make your learning process rather difficult. Instead, you might want to start with something like a generic Red Heart skein.

Working with any skein of yarn can bring a lot of heartache for people first learning to crochet. The reason for this is that there are two ends of the skein to pull yarn from. One usually protrudes from the center of the yarn, as shown below.



The other usually wraps around the -outside- of the skein and falls under the wrapper, like so:



Although I have a strong partiality for the first end photographed above, I probably wouldn't recommend it for a newbie crocheter. If you use the end that comes from within the skein, it often gets tangled and knotted with other lengths of string inside. When this happens, a huge knot will form, and after much tugging to get it out... you then must sort through a mess until you can continue your work. Since nothing sounds pleasant about that.... I must justify my favoritism. (lol!) The reason I enjoy using this end is because the skein can stay in place while I work. Since the yarn pulls out from the inside of the wrap, nothing moves and I don't have retrieve the skein every few moments. If I were to use the outside end, I would have to first remove the paper wrapper. Then, the skein would roll along the ground and I would have to retrieve it...... or I'd have to stop every few minutes and manually unwind enough string to keep me busy for awhile.

This was all I wanted to say on the matter of string, so that hopefully I can prevent you some feature heartache. There are, by the way, some special yarn stands, with dowels on them. I don't know if they are in stores, but I can't imagine them not existing. My grandpa made one for me which I greatly treasured until my baby brother broke it. Basically, you'd skewer the yarn with the dowel, set the dowel on the stand, and you could then work from the outside end of the yarn, without the yarn rolling away and having to retrieve it. It'd probably be pretty easy to create a makeshift stand if you wanted to.

Where do I start?

Crocheting is a pretty daunting hobby. Amazingly, I actually consider the very first step to be the most difficult, but perhaps that's due to how difficult I found it at 13 years old. You see, in order to begin crocheting, you need to have a starting stitch that's grounded with a slip knot. Since even holding the hook can take time to get accustomed to.... trying to learn the first stitch can take ages. Even my aunt would start the slip knot for me.... for months. Thus... as odd as it sounds... my first article here will not actually contain any crocheting instruction. ^.^ Instead, I want to focus on getitng you to a strong start: the slip knot.

Forget the hook. Let's work on it with your hands until you get accustomed to it.

In order to create a slip knot, the first thing you must do is overlap one end of the string over itself, like so:



If you hold the overlap between your fingers so that the loop falls DOWN, and the loose end is facing you.... you should let the rest of the yarn also fall towards you, over the loose end. Then, reach through the OTHER side..... like so.... (this is easier to see in my video):


(Note that in this picture, I have the loose end and the overlap facing the CAMERA, so that you can see the loops a little easier. This would be your view.)

Now... keep pulling....



Try your best to pull on both ends. You can do this by pinching one end and the loop between your fingers and palm of hand, while tugging on the second end with your other hand. It should start to look like this:



Finally, your knot should be complete!



The great thing about the knot..... well... if you've never played with a slip knot before, changing its size is really convenient. You can pull on the loop itself to make it larger, or you can grab both ends, pull... and presto! The knot will be gone.



Give it a try. Or two.. or... a hundred. Getting a hang on the slip knot will be tricky, but once you do, your transition into the hobby will be a lot more simple. If you have questions or want some more pointers, please don't hesitate to ask questions here. In a few weeks, once you've had time to practice the slip knot, I'll post another video and a tutorial one a few basic stitches.

Happy crocheting (sort of!), and God bless! I love you!






Although I could jump in and give you the ropes on crocheting, you'd be left in a pretty sore spot if you grab the wrong hook or end up with a ball of knots and nooses. Therefore, I'd like to give you some hints and tips for the first steps of your journey... things people usually don't think about.

The Hook

There are all kinds of hooks out there, but it's not necessary to spend a small fortune on a proper tool.For the most part, I see two brands: Susan Bates, and Boye. A crochet hook is pretty thin and narrow, usually made of aluminum or plastic. It has a 'hook' on one end which catches string while you partake in the hobby, creating stitches, and ultimately... a cloth. Hooks come in all sorts of sizes, and the sizes should be used for different kinds of projects.

Unfortunately, the standard for measuring hook sizes depends on brand, country, or pattern. Most hooks though, will show both the 'US size', and the metric size. Although my pictures didn't come out well, you can kind of see what I mean here:


As though having two standards for measure isn't enough, aluminum and steel hooks have different ..... US measurement titles depending on their material. For example, steel hooks will have a size ranging from 00 to 14, whereas aluminum hooks will have sizes between B-1 and S. Sounds kind of nuts, right? Luckily, it's not something you really have to stress about though, since MOST hooks will list both sizes right on the handle, as seen in my picture above. If your pattern only tells the opposite standard of the hook you want to buy, a quick google search can help you find a matching size. Or if you're in a store, there should be crochet books nearby. Pick one up and flip through it... and you're almost guaranteed to find a conversion chart. In case you're curious, you can also find the conversion charts here:


(chart provided from http://www.hassdesign.com/BasicFiletTechniques/CrochetHooksAndThread/)

So other than size, does it matter which crochet hook you use? Although the simplest response would be no, I would like to offer a different piece of advice based off my 13 years of experience. As I mentioned earlier, unless you want to spend a lot of money, the two most common brands are Susan Bates and Boyle. The Boyle hooks are everywhere, but quite frankly, I'm not their biggest fan. Pictured below, you can see a Boyle hook on the left, and a Bates hook on the right.



Although it might be difficult for the untrained eye to see, the hook on the left has a much softer and more shallow curve. This is a bad idea, because when crocheting, your yarn will fall off the hook very easily. You also stand a stronger chance of splitting your yarn when you try and catch the yarn back onto the hook. This means broken yarn and a messier texture to whatever you are creating. The hook on the right, however, has a deeper, more squarish indent. This catches yarn very easily, while also releasing it just as smoothly. I haven't seen a Bates hook in quite some time, but I'd definitely say they are worth the search if you plan on taking up crocheting as a hobby.

Finally, there's the question of what size you should start with as a beginning crocheter. Although I'm not sure what the rule of thumb is, my recommendation would be a 5.0mm, or a H-8. While you can start with larger hooks, I would strongly advise to stay away from the smaller ones while learning. Crocheting is a lot like hand-writing, in that everyone's style is different. Some people end up with wide, loose stitches, while others end up with small and tight stitches (like myself). Although I've never researched the idea, I have a feeling your stitches will tend towards whatever scale your handwriting does. 3.25mm and above, for myself, are ideal for working with yarns, while anything smaller is needed to work with strings. Yarns and strings come in different sizes, but that's not something I'll really discuss in this post, since it's not going to be important until you get comfortable with basic stitches and want to explore.

The Yarn

There's not a whole lot to be said about yarn and string right now as a beginner. Most standard yarns are pretty identical and so picking a skein does not need to be a stressful process. Although I'd recommend using softer types when completing a project, I actually would advise you to avoid it like the plague when first beginning your journey. Softer yarn splits with much more ease, and can make your learning process rather difficult. Instead, you might want to start with something like a generic Red Heart skein.

Working with any skein of yarn can bring a lot of heartache for people first learning to crochet. The reason for this is that there are two ends of the skein to pull yarn from. One usually protrudes from the center of the yarn, as shown below.



The other usually wraps around the -outside- of the skein and falls under the wrapper, like so:



Although I have a strong partiality for the first end photographed above, I probably wouldn't recommend it for a newbie crocheter. If you use the end that comes from within the skein, it often gets tangled and knotted with other lengths of string inside. When this happens, a huge knot will form, and after much tugging to get it out... you then must sort through a mess until you can continue your work. Since nothing sounds pleasant about that.... I must justify my favoritism. (lol!) The reason I enjoy using this end is because the skein can stay in place while I work. Since the yarn pulls out from the inside of the wrap, nothing moves and I don't have retrieve the skein every few moments. If I were to use the outside end, I would have to first remove the paper wrapper. Then, the skein would roll along the ground and I would have to retrieve it...... or I'd have to stop every few minutes and manually unwind enough string to keep me busy for awhile.

This was all I wanted to say on the matter of string, so that hopefully I can prevent you some feature heartache. There are, by the way, some special yarn stands, with dowels on them. I don't know if they are in stores, but I can't imagine them not existing. My grandpa made one for me which I greatly treasured until my baby brother broke it. Basically, you'd skewer the yarn with the dowel, set the dowel on the stand, and you could then work from the outside end of the yarn, without the yarn rolling away and having to retrieve it. It'd probably be pretty easy to create a makeshift stand if you wanted to.

Where do I start?

Crocheting is a pretty daunting hobby. Amazingly, I actually consider the very first step to be the most difficult, but perhaps that's due to how difficult I found it at 13 years old. You see, in order to begin crocheting, you need to have a starting stitch that's grounded with a slip knot. Since even holding the hook can take time to get accustomed to.... trying to learn the first stitch can take ages. Even my aunt would start the slip knot for me.... for months. Thus... as odd as it sounds... my first article here will not actually contain any crocheting instruction. ^.^ Instead, I want to focus on getitng you to a strong start: the slip knot.

Forget the hook. Let's work on it with your hands until you get accustomed to it.

In order to create a slip knot, the first thing you must do is overlap one end of the string over itself, like so:



If you hold the overlap between your fingers so that the loop falls DOWN, and the loose end is facing you.... you should let the rest of the yarn also fall towards you, over the loose end. Then, reach through the OTHER side..... like so.... (this is easier to see in my video):


(Note that in this picture, I have the loose end and the overlap facing the CAMERA, so that you can see the loops a little easier. This would be your view.)

Now... keep pulling....



Try your best to pull on both ends. You can do this by pinching one end and the loop between your fingers and palm of hand, while tugging on the second end with your other hand. It should start to look like this:



Finally, your knot should be complete!



The great thing about the knot..... well... if you've never played with a slip knot before, changing its size is really convenient. You can pull on the loop itself to make it larger, or you can grab both ends, pull... and presto! The knot will be gone.



Give it a try. Or two.. or... a hundred. Getting a hang on the slip knot will be tricky, but once you do, your transition into the hobby will be a lot more simple. If you have questions or want some more pointers, please don't hesitate to ask questions here. In a few weeks, once you've had time to practice the slip knot, I'll post another video and a tutorial one a few basic stitches.

Happy crocheting (sort of!), and God bless! I love you!






Vizzed Elite
Singelli


Affected by 'Laziness Syndrome'

Registered: 08-09-12
Location: Alabama
Last Post: 2519 days
Last Active: 2495 days

(edited by Singelli on 12-12-13 11:39 PM)    

12-31-13 11:49 AM
Singelli is Offline
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Singelli
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Hello vizzed peeps. I hope your holidays were wonderful, and I hope some of you are actually interested in learning how to crochet. I decided it was about time to move onto the next steps in the crocheting journey, so this post will discuss creating slip knots using a hook instead of your hands, as well as the most basic foundation stitch of crocheting. In order to take up this hobby, these two stitches are an absolute must, as you'd get nowhere without them.

For those who have the time, here's my poor quality, home-video. Please forgive Dorito's cameo appearance, but he knows how to open the door to my workout room, and he gets lonely without me. XD I didn't want to restart my recording for a third time, so I just nudged him away every time he started stepping on the yarn.



Now, as a recap or for those that don't feel like listening to my silly voice... I have pictures!

Getting a Grip on Things

For those of you who haven't watched the first video, one of the first things you want to get down is how you handle your crochet hook. There is no 'set' way of doing this, but it will take tons of practice for you to find what you're most comfortable with. I suggest trying some of the basic stitches using various ways of holding the handle until you find what works best for you, and don't get discouraged if it takes you weeks or months to figure out. Many beginning crocheters hold their hooks in the manner a toddler holds a pencil when first learning to write.




Although there is absolutely nothing wrong with this method, the problem is that the grip is garish and bad for your wrists. While starting with a hold like this is common and makes learning the hobby relatively easy, stitches become large, cumbersome movements with your wrist, and it's not very good for your bones. I myself tend to hold my hook almost exactly as I would hold a pencil or spoon.



This allows most of my movement to be in my fingers, and allows me to more finely control my stitches while ensuring tight, consistent work. I can also use my back two or three fingers to maneuver and pin yarn, which the other handling doesn't allow for.

The thing I want to emphasize the most however, is not to get discouraged while trying to find out what works for you. There aren't many activities which have the same requirements from both hands as crocheting does, so a lot of 'getting accustomed' is required.

Slip Knots on a Hook



In the last piece I wrote, I discussed how to form slip knots with your fingers. However, it's a slow and clumsy method that simply allows you to see how the knot is formed. The tricky part is using your hook to create one. If you feel this is an intimidating task, I suggest skipping on ahead to the chain stitch. Although this method may seem a bit backwards, the chain stitch and slip knot are very similar. However, with the chain stitch, less passing of the yarn takes place because a foundation is already there (the slip knot you formed with your hands). Once you get accustomed to how your hands move when making a chain stitch, you can then try to replicate that plus a little more, in order to get your slip knot working.

This was not easy to take pictures of, but I did try my best.

Step 1:You need both hands when crocheting, and forming the slip knot is no different. I like to grip the string with my back fingers of my writing hand, loop the yarn over the hook, and hold the yarn taught with my alternate hand.

You'll then need to 'cross' the yarn just like you did when forming the knot with your hands. However, this time the positions are a little different and your hook is smack dab in the middle of the loop.



Step 2:You should now ideally see two loops on the top of your hook. (Note my hook is pointed downwards.)



It's easiest, in my opinion, if you pin that area where the yarn strands intersect. I like to do this with my middle finger against my thumb. This is quick and easy, so that nothing slides around.





With the yarn now pinned in place, it's easy to use your other hand to wrap the yarn over the top of your hook. Just a handy tip from a long time crocheter: You'll want your hook turned downwards for this process. This way, the actual hook can more easily slide through the loop, like slipping through the pointed part of a teardrop. It's a perfect fit!



The tricky part of this maneuver (for me at least), is that you need to swap the pinned intersection to your other hand. This is due to the fact that the goal is to get the hook through that loop. If you keep the pinned intersection on the same hand as the loop, it will be very difficult to get the hook through. I took three pictures to try and show that I swapped the yarn from my writing hand, to my non-writing hand. (This starts in the second picture. I purposefully opened up my writing hand in the third picture so that you could see I was no longer holding the yarn in that hand, and that my left hand had a full grip on the pinned yarn.)



Step 3:The next step is hopefully the easiest. With the crossed yarn pinned in your non-writing hand, the loop of yarn firmly over the hook, and your writing hand free to move, you now pull the hook through the intersecting loop. The strand of yarn closest to the hook should catch within the hook, and should be drawn through the loop closest to your writing hand.

As you tug on the hook, the other loop will begin to tighten. You can release the intersection of yarn and simply grip the tail end and skein end, as you can see in the second photo below.



You will now have a firm slip knot to work with. ^.^ Although this looks like a complicated mess, it's not all that bad. Once you do a dozen or so of these, it will become second nature. You might even laugh when people marvel at the complicated looking procedure.

The Necessary Foundation (Chain Stitch)

The wonderful thing about slip knots and chain stitches is that once you've mastered one of them, there's very little work to do on the other. Crocheting is really just a series of pulling loops repetitively through other loops, similar to the way one might braid hair or weave fabric. However, it is absolutely impossible to crochet without the chain stitch. This reminds me: reading a crochet pattern is a lot like reading music. Instead of symbols representing musical notes, abbreviations represent certain stitches. For example, a slip knot is abbreviated with 'sl st', and a chain stitch is abbreviated 'ch'. I'll talk about reading patterns once all stitches have been covered in this thread.

Step 1: Start with a slip knot, whether you used your hook or hands to form it. You will want to pin the tail of the yarn (or whatever you have crocheted prior to this stitch) between your palm and last fingers if you hold your hook like I do. Then, you will find the motions almost identical to a slip knot. Loop the skein end of the yarn around the hook, keeping the hook pointed downwards.



I like to keep everything pulled snug using those back fingers against my palm, and after you loop the yarn over, you will end up with two strands over the top of the hook. Don't forget that you will need to swap your loose yarn end from the hook hand to your other hand. You can see this swap being made in the first picture below.

Step 2: Loop, Swap, Tug. Loop, swap, tug. Once both loops are in place, you tug the most recent loop through the original. Rinse and repeat, and you'll end up with a 'chain'.





When you first start creating your chain stitches, they'll likely come out uneven and sloppy. That's to be expected, and will change with time. Just keep at it until you are able to fluidly crochet a lengthy chain. Since this will be the foundation for everything you create, you'll want to make sure you can do it well.

Good luck, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Hello vizzed peeps. I hope your holidays were wonderful, and I hope some of you are actually interested in learning how to crochet. I decided it was about time to move onto the next steps in the crocheting journey, so this post will discuss creating slip knots using a hook instead of your hands, as well as the most basic foundation stitch of crocheting. In order to take up this hobby, these two stitches are an absolute must, as you'd get nowhere without them.

For those who have the time, here's my poor quality, home-video. Please forgive Dorito's cameo appearance, but he knows how to open the door to my workout room, and he gets lonely without me. XD I didn't want to restart my recording for a third time, so I just nudged him away every time he started stepping on the yarn.



Now, as a recap or for those that don't feel like listening to my silly voice... I have pictures!

Getting a Grip on Things

For those of you who haven't watched the first video, one of the first things you want to get down is how you handle your crochet hook. There is no 'set' way of doing this, but it will take tons of practice for you to find what you're most comfortable with. I suggest trying some of the basic stitches using various ways of holding the handle until you find what works best for you, and don't get discouraged if it takes you weeks or months to figure out. Many beginning crocheters hold their hooks in the manner a toddler holds a pencil when first learning to write.




Although there is absolutely nothing wrong with this method, the problem is that the grip is garish and bad for your wrists. While starting with a hold like this is common and makes learning the hobby relatively easy, stitches become large, cumbersome movements with your wrist, and it's not very good for your bones. I myself tend to hold my hook almost exactly as I would hold a pencil or spoon.



This allows most of my movement to be in my fingers, and allows me to more finely control my stitches while ensuring tight, consistent work. I can also use my back two or three fingers to maneuver and pin yarn, which the other handling doesn't allow for.

The thing I want to emphasize the most however, is not to get discouraged while trying to find out what works for you. There aren't many activities which have the same requirements from both hands as crocheting does, so a lot of 'getting accustomed' is required.

Slip Knots on a Hook



In the last piece I wrote, I discussed how to form slip knots with your fingers. However, it's a slow and clumsy method that simply allows you to see how the knot is formed. The tricky part is using your hook to create one. If you feel this is an intimidating task, I suggest skipping on ahead to the chain stitch. Although this method may seem a bit backwards, the chain stitch and slip knot are very similar. However, with the chain stitch, less passing of the yarn takes place because a foundation is already there (the slip knot you formed with your hands). Once you get accustomed to how your hands move when making a chain stitch, you can then try to replicate that plus a little more, in order to get your slip knot working.

This was not easy to take pictures of, but I did try my best.

Step 1:You need both hands when crocheting, and forming the slip knot is no different. I like to grip the string with my back fingers of my writing hand, loop the yarn over the hook, and hold the yarn taught with my alternate hand.

You'll then need to 'cross' the yarn just like you did when forming the knot with your hands. However, this time the positions are a little different and your hook is smack dab in the middle of the loop.



Step 2:You should now ideally see two loops on the top of your hook. (Note my hook is pointed downwards.)



It's easiest, in my opinion, if you pin that area where the yarn strands intersect. I like to do this with my middle finger against my thumb. This is quick and easy, so that nothing slides around.





With the yarn now pinned in place, it's easy to use your other hand to wrap the yarn over the top of your hook. Just a handy tip from a long time crocheter: You'll want your hook turned downwards for this process. This way, the actual hook can more easily slide through the loop, like slipping through the pointed part of a teardrop. It's a perfect fit!



The tricky part of this maneuver (for me at least), is that you need to swap the pinned intersection to your other hand. This is due to the fact that the goal is to get the hook through that loop. If you keep the pinned intersection on the same hand as the loop, it will be very difficult to get the hook through. I took three pictures to try and show that I swapped the yarn from my writing hand, to my non-writing hand. (This starts in the second picture. I purposefully opened up my writing hand in the third picture so that you could see I was no longer holding the yarn in that hand, and that my left hand had a full grip on the pinned yarn.)



Step 3:The next step is hopefully the easiest. With the crossed yarn pinned in your non-writing hand, the loop of yarn firmly over the hook, and your writing hand free to move, you now pull the hook through the intersecting loop. The strand of yarn closest to the hook should catch within the hook, and should be drawn through the loop closest to your writing hand.

As you tug on the hook, the other loop will begin to tighten. You can release the intersection of yarn and simply grip the tail end and skein end, as you can see in the second photo below.



You will now have a firm slip knot to work with. ^.^ Although this looks like a complicated mess, it's not all that bad. Once you do a dozen or so of these, it will become second nature. You might even laugh when people marvel at the complicated looking procedure.

The Necessary Foundation (Chain Stitch)

The wonderful thing about slip knots and chain stitches is that once you've mastered one of them, there's very little work to do on the other. Crocheting is really just a series of pulling loops repetitively through other loops, similar to the way one might braid hair or weave fabric. However, it is absolutely impossible to crochet without the chain stitch. This reminds me: reading a crochet pattern is a lot like reading music. Instead of symbols representing musical notes, abbreviations represent certain stitches. For example, a slip knot is abbreviated with 'sl st', and a chain stitch is abbreviated 'ch'. I'll talk about reading patterns once all stitches have been covered in this thread.

Step 1: Start with a slip knot, whether you used your hook or hands to form it. You will want to pin the tail of the yarn (or whatever you have crocheted prior to this stitch) between your palm and last fingers if you hold your hook like I do. Then, you will find the motions almost identical to a slip knot. Loop the skein end of the yarn around the hook, keeping the hook pointed downwards.



I like to keep everything pulled snug using those back fingers against my palm, and after you loop the yarn over, you will end up with two strands over the top of the hook. Don't forget that you will need to swap your loose yarn end from the hook hand to your other hand. You can see this swap being made in the first picture below.

Step 2: Loop, Swap, Tug. Loop, swap, tug. Once both loops are in place, you tug the most recent loop through the original. Rinse and repeat, and you'll end up with a 'chain'.





When you first start creating your chain stitches, they'll likely come out uneven and sloppy. That's to be expected, and will change with time. Just keep at it until you are able to fluidly crochet a lengthy chain. Since this will be the foundation for everything you create, you'll want to make sure you can do it well.

Good luck, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
Vizzed Elite
Singelli


Affected by 'Laziness Syndrome'

Registered: 08-09-12
Location: Alabama
Last Post: 2519 days
Last Active: 2495 days

(edited by Singelli on 12-31-13 02:46 PM)    

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